Nowhere in the world can truly dazzle like Fiji and here on Yasawa Island, where the sun breaks through the clouds and lights up the water till it sparkles like a thousand diamonds, it’s like the ultimate photo-shopped travel brochure, so stunning it can’t be real, too perfect for photos.
We’re sitting in a village watching locals dance and sing but it doesn’t feel like a performance, more like we’re privy to their weekly routine. The chief of this island, Etuate Roko, tells me later that Fijians dance because they want to, nothing’s contrived, they’re not desperate for our tourist dollars to survive.

In fact, the Yasawas, an island group north-west of Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu, must be one of the most unaffected island groups remaining in this world. Until 1987, the Fijian Government closed these islands to land-based tourism, ownership was, and still is, in the hands of local chiefs, and most of the Yasawas house nothing but eco-friendly, low-impact accommodation. Etuate Roko, who sits with me as we watch local children run excitedly into water that never gets dirty or cold, and seems to stretch further than my eyes can see, is the boss around these parts, although he insists there’s not much he has to do. “People are good,” he says. “They don’t need anything, they don’t need money, they have food, they have goats, they have cows, they have football, they have fish … they have lots of fish. What would they steal?” No-one begs either, or tries to sell you anything. Like my own childhood island home, Rarotonga, you practically have to wake people up to buy their wares.
And so it is on this perfect Thursday afternoon (which could be Friday, or Saturday, or Sunday, it doesn’t matter for time doesn’t just stand still in Fiji, it lies down) that I’ve found something I’ve often thought unattainable: no whingeing on holiday, from anybody – in fact my cruise through the Yasawas with Blue Lagoon Cruises has so far brought no complaints, it’s rare to see tourists so content on holiday. Noted travel theorist Pico Iyer says we travel “to become young fools in love, to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once again”.
As I sit on this beach in the Yasawas (nicknamed Eight Month Beach because they say it takes that long for the fine, silky sand to get out of your hair) and the sun slowly sets and the first stars come out for the evening, the water is still so warm I can’t stand to take my legs out. When the full moon comes out and I see the beach lit up like phosphorescence, I realise I’m still capable of playing the young fool, because it feels like I’m in high school with my first love all over again.

Fiji is made up of over 330 islands inhabited by a population of Melanesians, Polynesians, Micronesians, Indians, Europeans and Chinese. The Yasawas are just one part of the Fijian treasure, there’s islands here to break a million hearts. From the window seat of my plane all I saw on approach was the dark blue seas that broke in white explosions onto the coral reefs. The white wash runs for ten metres, then like everything else that comes to Fiji, it lets go of itself, takes a chill pill, and lolls around in the lagoon.
As I approach Nadi International Airport it’s impossible not to notice the massive green mountains that dominate the main island of Vitu Levu and I try to imagine the enormous volcanic eruptions that must have happened here to make mountains stand straight out of the ocean. As I make my way out onto the tarmac the smells of Fiji are overpowering: the frangipani on the warm evening breeze, the coconut oil (an old ex-pat tells me Fiji smells like coconut oil, sweat and curry) and the smell of vegetation slowly basting in a greenhouse. I love the airport: the terribly cheesy local advertising that epitomises the gawky innocence of the South Pacific, the all-too-serious local authorities who break down into high pitched giggles when they think we’re not looking.

But my destination is away from Nadi, I must take a small plane north to the remote island of Taveuni, one of Fiji’s most pristine, untouched gems. The first observation I make is that Fiji really is a lot of ocean, and not much land. Set in over 150 000 square kilometres of Pacific Ocean, aside from the main island of Viti Levu, Fiji is made up of primarily tiny islands, meaning a boat or a small plane will serve you far better than hiring a car.
We stop to refuel in Suvasuva on Fiji’s second biggest island, Vanua Levu, and it is a step back in time: small children rush out to wave at you and people wander close to you without restriction. Vanua Levu is far less developed than Viti Levu and has an interior so rugged and mountainous it can only be reached by the most intrepid explorers; just driving on the island can also be a test of courage, although the Hibiscus Highway that weaves along the coastline out of Suvasuva offers stunning views and is the gateway to a hundred sandy beaches. The Tunuloa Peninsula, connected by a narrow isthmus from Natewa Bay is brilliant for swimming, snorkelling and diving. Suvasuva itself is fascinating, built on a hot spring, it’s more like Rotorua than anything, although its rustic old façade is undeniably the stuff of south sea legends. Steam comes out of the ground everywhere, even from the seashore, while Suvasuva Bay is a knock-out. For crusty old characters, the world-famous Planters Club is a magnet, and well worth an afternoon drink or two.
I journey on, although Taveuni is just seven kilometres from Vanua Levu, it’s literally another world, and perhaps my favourite island in Fiji. Dubbed the Garden Island, Taveuni is known throughout the world for its wildlife, especially its birds which never had to contend with the introduced mongoose, and its extensive reef structure surrounding the island making it one of the world’s premier dive spots. I spend four days on the island and find myself sucked into the easy way of life, one night I drink kava and dance on the beach with no-one but locals and I feel as far from my normal life as I’ve ever felt. Days are spent swimming, snorkelling, walking through rainforest and drinking coconut milk and I start to find I don’t want to return home.

Fijians are perhaps the friendliest people I’ve come across, their welcome has no strings attached. Taveuni used to be where the International Dateline crossed through, somehow I can’t imagine the relaxed locals cared at all if it was yesterday, today or tomorrow. I visited many waterfalls on the island, one could only be reached after the tiring Lavena coastal walk past traditional villages and a coastline so rugged, yet peaceful I took a hundred pictures. Elsewhere on Taveuni you can find one of the world’s rarest flowers, the Tagimaucia (‘Crying Tears Of Despair’) inside Lake Tagimaucia, an extinct volcanic crater, while the birds of the island, such as the kula parrot and orange dove made me want to take up bird watching as a hobby.

After Taveuni, returning to Viti Levu feels like eclipsing centuries. But it doesn’t last for long, for while the main island of Viti Levu is more developed than anywhere else in Fiji, it’s still a pristine playground for the vacationer. Denarau Island, not far from Nadi’s International Airport, is a sophisticated epicentre, home to some of the island’s best known resorts. I stayed at Denarau for a few nights and while it couldn’t replicate the splendid isolation of the Yasawas, it still feels like you’re in the middle of a South Pacific dream sequence. One night I sat out on my balcony and smelt the salt in the air and heard the coconut palms wave in the breeze while cicadas and geckos made a racket and someone invariably picked up a guitar (Fijians love to perform) and I realised why Fiji always reaps the kudos for those chasing the perfect South Seas holiday. It is near to perfect, and it’s close to Australia to boot. One of the first areas developed for tourism was the Coral Coast, on the south-west side of Viti Levu. The Queen’s Highway connects Nadi to Suva, the country’s capital and also one of the biggest and most sophisticated cities of the South Pacific (and home to some of the world’s best food), it meanders past the Coral Coast’s eclectic collection of resorts set on white sandy beaches, protected from massive waves by a barrier of coral reef. Between the beaches large stretches of uninhabited rainforest stretch on forever, before being cut off by quaint coastal fishing villages and the bays, rocky outcrops and mountains that make this stretch of coastline so dramatic. There are also sugarcane fields and vegetable plantations and dramatic mountain ranges that drop to the ocean, home to the Nausori Highlands, in the lush, tropical interior of Viti Levu, east of Nadi. It has perhaps the most picturesque village in Fiji in Navala, you must ask the village chief here for permission to take photos and don’t even consider turning up on a Sunday. The small town of Sigatoka on Viti Levu’s south coast is also a must-see. Built on the banks of Fiji’s second largest river, the town has a great produce market and interesting streetscape. You can also explore the huge Sigatoka sand dunes, the south coast and the lush Sigatoka Valley, home to over 200 cultural and archaeological sites.

Everywhere in Fiji is worth a holiday in itself, and the fascinating thing is you can’t help but find another hidden treasure each time you visit. This time I also discovered Kadavu, a less-travelled island paradise just 88 kilometres south of Suva. It also has few paved roads and just landing on the airstrip is a story in itself, but what it offers defies description: high mountains, stunning beaches, rare wildlife, world’s best diving, kava under a full moon and an unaffected local population of 9000 that it seems time left behind. But that’s another story, the best thing to do is get to Fiji and write your own.

Local Knowledge
We decided to ask a local for his guidance to getting the best out of Fiji!
Ben, who is the stylist at the new hair and beauty salon at Bebe Spa, is orginally from West Covina, outside Pasadena in California. After building an enviable career in fashion merchandising, hairdressing, styling and management and living in a range of exciting American destinations, Ben decided to return to Fiji, where he had lived until he was eight years old.
Ben says, “I took a vacation to Fiji in 2003 and my two week’s holiday turned into ten months. From that trip I decided I would like to move back to Fiji I find living in Fiji and doing what I do rewarding. The pace of life is just right – slow and relaxing. Do I miss the comforts of living in the USA? Sure, but as time goes by it becomes less and less. So I guess you can say Fiji is becoming and feeling like HOME!!!”

Q&A
What made you move to Fiji?
I moved here because I fell in love with the pace and quality of life, along with the friendliness of the people and I’m a fan of warm weather.
What do you love the most about living there?
The great weather on the Coral Coast and the relaxed lifestyle.
What is the most bizarre/unusual part about your life in Fiji?
It’s bizarre to be so stress free and almost feel like you have no worries. It’s the ‘stress free’ attitude of the people that is so catchy.
Your favourite time of the year in Fiji, and why?
Winter months – June to September. It’s drier, with low humidity and a great time of year for outdoor activities.
Where to get the best coffee?
‘Bulacinos’
A unique gift or souvenir to take home?
Pure Fiji beauty products
Where is the best beach for a quiet afternoon stroll?
The Sunset Strip Beach
The best beach for a lazy swim?
Natadola Beach
What do locals like to do on a Sunday?
Relax, eat and sleep!
What is your favourite local cheap eat?
Tomlu in Cuvu
A must-not-miss activity for couples visiting Fiji?
Navua River rafting
If I wanted to impress someone, where would I take them to dine?
The beautiful Ivi Restaurant at the Outrigger on the Lagoon resort.
Is there one word or phrase that best describes Fiji?
Simplicity.
One ‘must-pack’ item for a Fijian holiday?
Your camera.

For The Active
Game Fishing
Fishing in Fiji is favoured all year round. There is simply great fishing for everyone! All methods of game fishing are available in Fiji and overnight charters are also available where the whole family can fish.
Best Wahoo Season May - August
Best Billfish Season March-April, July-August, October-November
Best Tanguige Season Feb-April, July-August, October-November
Best Tuna Season April - July
Sailfish can be found throughout the year.

Golf
You’ll find that the Fiji Islands offer a wide range of quality golf courses - from small “pitch and putts” right through to international championship courses. So, take your time and enjoy golfing in Fiji.

What are some of the best surfing spots in Fiji?
Isolated surf spots like Frigate Pass and Kadavu, where the waves cascade onto reefs, which are margined by deepest blue water, can only be described as breathtaking. The surfer is ever aware that he is an exotic animal in this environment. The crystal clear waves occasionally remind him that he is not alone with sharks often coming in to see this odd guest. Fortunately they have never considered a guest for dinner as a surfeit of natural fare abounds.

Adventure and Activities
• Many resorts offer horse riding on the beach.
• Fiji’s rainforests are unique in that they have no harmful animals or insects. Here one can enjoy serene contemplation of nature in complete safety. Multi-hued birds flit from the trees, and if you are lucky you may spot several varieties of Fiji’s tiny wild parrots. While the forest can be thick and impenetrable, you will find pathways used by the Fijians who know the jungle as well as you know your own living room.
• Because of the mountainous nature of the islands, there are numerous streams and waterfalls, often with a cool pond in a rocky basin beneath the falls. One of the most famous is the sacred Bouma Falls on the Island of Taveuni, seen by the world in the motion picture Return to the Blue Lagoon. Here you will also find a natural waterslide, also featured in the movie, where local residents have enjoyed themselves for centuries. Fiji has no leeches or crocodiles, and wild streams and brooks are crystal clear and unpolluted.

Fact File
fly Virgin Blue fly to Nadi from Brisbane on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday, and from Sydney on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
money The local currency in Fiji is the Fijian dollar, exchange rate is roughly A$1 - FD$1.3

Climate and Weather
Fiji enjoys a tropical climate, and generally temperatures in the summer months – November to April – are slightly warmer than the winter months. Summer is often referred to as the rainy season, although the rain is often just an afternoon tropical downpour. Light clothes are recommended at all times, but in winter it is wise to also pack a light sweater for the evenings.

The Warwick Resort & Spa
 Located on the ocean’s edge, with Polynesian-influenced architecture opening towards sky and ocean, the Warwick Spa provides an exquisite environment where one can revitalise both body and spirit. The Warwick Spa uses aromatics with pure water in all of the natural spa treatments, and essential oils derived from spices and flowers from traditional gardens.
www.warwickfiji.com

Namale Resort & Spa
The award-winning Namale Spa & Sanctuary is set atop lava pinnacles with stunning panoramic views of the Koro Sea. The word sanctuary is used to describe this luxurious spa retreat, simply because it is just that. It was built to complement the natural surroundings, and as such, the 10,000 square-foot spa has been constructed from native palm wood, rock and palm thatch. The treatment rooms are large and private, and the spa also offers a hydrotherapy room to complement the extensive treatment menu.  Their signature treatment is the ‘Meke Totoka Tandem Massage’, where two therapists, perfectly synchronized, work on you for an hour and a half. www.namaleresort.com

Toberua Island Resort
Toberua’s mini spa offers guests an opportunity to indulge and surrender their senses to a state of euphoric bliss. With highly trained and experienced attendants, you can expect a range of treatments from feather-like caressing facials to deep tissue knot-releasing massages. With the sound of the ocean in the distance and the smell of exotic oils and flowers wafting through the massage bure, you are sure to be tempted to surrender to a state of euphoric bliss. www.toberua.com

Outrigger on the Lagoon
Overlooking the spectacular Coral Coast, the stunning Bebe (pronounced Behm-be) Spa is one of the South Pacific’s most luxurious spa retreats.
Featuring the indulgent Pevonia Botanica range, signature treatments balance the health benefits of hydrotherapy with the relaxing effects of aromatherapy to create an experience nothing short of divine.
Suspended from the main building, Bebe’s seven spa treatment rooms open onto private open-air balconies, ‘showers in the sky’ and sunken spas. www.bebespafiji.com

Text: Craig Tansley
Photography courtesy Fiji Visitors Bureau
From issue: Spring/Summer 07/08