Whitsundays & Great Barrier Reef
One of the rewarding things about the Whitsundays and the Reef is that it takes a bit of effort to get there – if it were on your doorstep you might take it for granted! Once you are there you have day trips, sailing options, coral cays to camp on and a choice of fabulous resorts to stay at, both island and mainland (while many of the island resorts have taken a lot of the spotlight over the years, Airlie Beach has become a popular destination in itself, and is considered the ‘gateway’ to the islands and Great Barrier Reef).

Highlight: Whitehaven Beach is arguably the world’s best beach with kilometres of soft, white sand, crystal clear blue water and stunning scenery. There’s no resort here but you can visit on a day trip for snorkelling, bush and beach walks or a romantic picnic.

Getting there: You can fly direct to Hamilton Island or Proserpine from Sydney, Brisbane or Melbourne, take a train, bus or drive. Airlie Beach and Shute Harbour are the coastal gateways to the islands by ferry or you can fly by helicopter or seaplane.

Best time to visit: Anytime – the water temperatures are around 25 degrees year-round – January to March are the humid months with temperatures up around 30 degrees. The winters are warm with an average daily temperature of a bit over 23 degrees.

Useful web site: www.whitsundaytourism.com

Did you know?: Did you know that the Great Barrier Reef is home to 300 species of coral, 400 species of sponges, 1500 species of fish and 4000 species of molluscs? And, if you did know that, do you know whose job it is to count them? IH

 

Kakadu
Kakadu National Park probably has more creatures per metre than anywhere since Noah’s Ark. It could almost be called Kakadu National Ark. Kakadu is forests, rivers and flood plains. It is waterfalls at midday, billabongs at burning dusk and galleries of art five times older than the Pharaohs. Plus, crocodiles in the river anytime you’re silly enough to risk swimming. Basically, Jurassic Park without the digital dinosaurs.

A highlight: Twin Falls, a beautiful two-skeined cataract falling into an Edenic billabong. And the Aboriginal rock art, extraordinary galleries that document heroes, humans and beasts. The paintings at the easily-visited Ubirr Rock and Nourlangie Rock sites are up to 25,000 years old.

Getting there: Drive down the Stuart Highway from Darwin, turn left onto the Arnhem Highway, pass Humpty Doo and numerous giant termite mounds. Three hours and 250 kilometres from Darwin, you’re there.

Best time to visit: During dry season, April to October.

Useful web site: www.deh.gov.au/heritage/worldheritage/sites/kakadu

Did you know?: Kakadu is home to no fewer than 60 species of mammals, 289 of birds, 132 of reptiles, 25 of frogs, 55 of freshwater fish and over 10,000 species of insects. JB

 

Surfers Paradise
James Cavill built a pub called the Surfers Paradise Hotel beside an uncelebrated stretch of southern Queensland coastal dunes in 1925. Business boomed and when the area was renamed, from Elston, in 1933, there was never a question of it being called “Nine-Pin Nirvana” or “Tennis Limbo”. A surfer’s paradise it was and thus, Surfers Paradise it would be. Today, Surfers is a glitzy city of high-rise apartments and hotels that draws millions of annual visitors to its nightlife, dining, shopping and gambling attractions, and of course to its beach.

A highlight: Surfers’ most famous event is the Indy Car Grand Prix in March.

Getting there: Fly to Coolangatta and then drive 20 km north to Surfers.

Best time to visit: The Gold Coast is a year-round destination. Depending upon your age you might rush to or away from the late-November “schoolies week” when high school kids, having finished their exams, invade here to rage the week away.

Useful web site: www.surfersparadise.com

Did you know?: At 322.5 metres high, Surfers’ newest icon, the Q1 building, is the world’s tallest residential tower. It has 80 storeys, served by an express elevator that can ascend 77 floors in just 49 seconds. If you prefer to walk, there are 1430 steps from top to bottom. JB

 

Daintree
This World Heritage-listed rainforest is the oldest in the world – over 153 million years young – and it is home to the largest range of plants and animals on the planet – frogs, snakes, lizards, bats, butterflies and crocodiles. There are hiking tracks, swimming holes, camping sites, river cruises, scenic lookouts, camping spots, cafes, restaurants and unsurpassed flora and fauna all around.

Highlight: One highlight is simply experiencing an area that could have once been destroyed by logging – another is drifting up the river for an Attenborough-type experience to see crocodiles lazing on the banks.

Getting there: The Daintree is in Tropical North Queensland, a couple of hours north of Cairns. Port Douglas makes an excellent base for tours and there is a range of accommodation options within the rainforest.

Best time to visit: Anytime of year but it can be very hot and humid in the summer months.

Useful web site: www.daintreerainforest.com

Did you know?: In the summer months the coast of North Queensland sees nasty ‘stingers’ (box jellyfish) off the beaches (hence the enclosed swimming areas). They breed in mangrove swamps in rivers like the Daintree and are flushed out of the river systems once a year to the coast. IH

 

Blue Mountains
Named because of the blue haze caused by the oily mist exuded from the eucalypts, the deep gorges, sandstone cliffs and rugged tree-clad slopes are simultaneously dramatic and peaceful. For the active there are bushwalks, abseiling, mountain biking and canyoning. For those not-so-inclined there are restaurants, cafes, tea-houses, art galleries, antique shops and, of course, the scenery.

Highlight: The Three Sisters at Echo Point, just south of Katoomba. Hop on the cable car that swings across the gorge or take the scenic railway down the steepest incline in the world to the floor of the Jamison Valley.

Getting there: It is a pleasant couple of hours by car or train west of Sydney.

Best time to visit: Anytime of year but in July a number of restaurants celebrate Yulefest, a mid-year Christmas, when the weather is compatible with open fires, roast turkey and steamed plum pudding.

Useful web site: www.bluemts.com.au

Did you know?: The mountains are home to the Norman Lindsay Gallery and Museum. Apart from creating The Magic Pudding, Lindsay enjoyed painting and sculpting naked women. During his lifetime galleries displaying Lindsay nudes were raided by the vice squad. These days those same nudes fetch tens of thousands of dollars. IH

 

Cable Beach
Each evening Broome’s Cable Beach comes alive when hundreds of visitors and locals pause to watch the spectacular Indian Ocean sunset. Cable Beach is the core of Broome’s tourist industry, with the upmarket Cable Beach Resort and camel rides adding to attraction of the shoreline’s dramatic, 22-kilometre long sweep. Humpback whales migrating along the west coast often calve in the waters off here. Peak sighting times for them are August and September.

A highlight: Look for a multi-coloured sea when, after the rains, the in-shore currents turn red with mud then flow out to meet the turquoise off-shore waters. During autumn cyclone season, scores of surfers ride these multi-hued waves, while also keeping an eye out for crocs.

Getting there: Fly from all Australian capitals via Perth or Darwin, or do some really long-distance driving.

Best time to visit: Year-round, although the dry season (early April-late October) is more comfortable.

Useful web site: www.ebroome.com

Did you know?: The name Cable Beach recalls the 19th-century days when the original international telegraph cable, stretching from London via Java, came ashore here. JB

 

Great Ocean Road
The Great Ocean Road is one of Australia’s best ocean drives. From Geelong to the South Australian border you pass famous surf beaches like Bell’s, Torquay and Apollo Bay. Kangaroos graze on the golf course at Angelsea; you pass through rainforests in Otway National Park and Port Campbell National Park is home to the postcard-pretty Twelve Apostles. The coastline is dotted with delightful towns and strategically placed lookouts.

Highlight: You can’t miss the Apostles so why not go exploring for something smaller? In Warrnambool, head to sheltered Stingray Bay – wade through the water to the headland and seek out the small caves (by sight and smell) and you should be rewarded by finding Little (Fairy) Penguins in their rookeries.

Getting there: Head west from Geelong and Nelson marks the western end of the road (and the state).

Best time to visit: All seasons. Naturally it is colder in winter but cosier and more dramatic, especially along the Shipwreck Coast.

Useful web site: www.greatoceanrd.org.au/

Did you know?: Returned WW1 soldiers built the road, with picks and shovels, to commemorate their comrades who didn’t return. IH

 

Murray River
All that’s missing from Australia’s Mississippi is Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn. This great river meanders between New South Wales and Victoria then through South Australia to the sea. Along the banks are historic towns, heritage trails, wineries, orchards and native bushland. The river itself can be explored by paddlesteamer or houseboat and it is a freshwater playground for swimmers, anglers, canoeists and water-skiers.

Highlight: Hire a houseboat and be a modern day explorer. There are a dozen towns along the Murray where you can hire a houseboat to suit all tastes and budgets (check the website below). With two to 12 berths you can have a romantic interlude among the willows or get a group and share the cost. All you need is a current driver’s licence, a quick lesson and a sense of fun and adventure.

Getting there: Echuca is two and a half hours from Melbourne and Murray Bridge is only an hour from Adelaide.

Best time to visit: All seasons. Winter is more peaceful – get warm by a campfire on the bank. Summer is more vibrant and ideal for swimming.

Useful web site: www.murrayriver.com.au

Did you know?: Most Australian geography students will have travelled the Murray River by pencil but did you know that the little eastern bit of the border that requires a ruler is called the Black-Allan line? IH

 

Sydney Harbour
The harbour is Sydney’s crowing jewel. Stunningly beautiful by day or night, it is open 24/7 and admission can be free. You can wander the foreshores, swim from the harbour beaches, sail on her, scuba dive under her, parasail or take a helicopter ride over her or take a leisurely lunch or dinner cruise and let the scenery pass you by.

Highlight: Take the ferry to Manly. A terrific cruise at a public transport price! Walk from side to side and enjoy the Bridge, the Opera House, Kiribilli House, Admiralty House, Fort Denison, Taronga Zoo, Shark and Clark islands, the exclusive Eastern Suburbs waterfront real estate, WW2 fortifications, North and South Heads and the passing array of other craft.

Getting there: To catch the Manly ferry, take a bus or train, or drive to Circular Quay.

Best time to visit: Anytime – she sparkles all year round.

Useful web site: www.harbourtrust.gov.au

Did you know? Three Japanese midget submarines attacked Sydney Harbour in 1942. All were disabled but only two were recovered. The bodies of four Japanese sailors were cremated with military honours at Eastern Suburbs Crematorium. IH

 

Uluru
As songwriter Shane Howard expressed it so succinctly in the Goanna masterpiece Solid Rock: “We’re talkin’ about a chosen place ... Standing on solid rock, standing on sacred ground.” It is that sense of privilege that imbues any visit to the huge monolith at the red heart of the world’s oldest continent, in the traditional lands of the Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara people (known as Anangu).
Rising 348 metres from the spinifex-strewn desert floor with a circumference of almost ten kilometres, Uluru can exert, particularly at sunrise and sunset, something so extraordinary that it is more easily expressed by poets than scientists. One of the former, Rex Ingamells wrote that “It remains for individual discovery so long as the human mind retains its capacity for wonder.”
Only about 10% of visitors undergo the extreme exertion of climbing Uluru, which pleases the Anangu, who consider it a defilement.
Uluru and nearby Kata Tjuta (with its 36 steep-sided domes) are believed to be part of a tilted sedimentary bed laid down 600 million years ago. So tilted that Uluru protrudes from the earth at an angle of 85 degrees with most of its bulk – like an iceberg - beneath the surface.

Highlight: Uluru at sunset, as the rock changes from ocre to glowing, brilliant red.

Getting There: Uluru has its own airport but the six-hour, 460 km transfer from Alice Springs is generally undertaken by road, with a shuttle bus (at around $120) well frequented.

Best time to visit: If you don’t cope well with temperatures above 30˚C, consider visiting between April and September. But remember to pack warm clothing, as although the days are sunny and warm overnight winter temperatures can drop below 0˚C.

Useful website: www.deh.gov.au/parks/uluru/ or log on to www.uluru.com

Did You Know?: The actual rock is grey but is covered with a distinctive red iron oxide coating. GAB

 

from issue: Spring/Summer 07

IH > Ian Heydon GAB > Glenn A Baker JB > John Borthwick