> > by Craig Tansley
Koh Samui is a tiny Thai fishing island lost in time that still beats with the same self-sufficient, ancient heart. Koh Samui is an ultra-modern, sophisticated Thai holiday destination that offers visitors on vacation more options than almost any other Thailand destination. No, we’re not confused, it’s Koh Samui that’s confused; a sleepy island even mainland Thais weren’t much interested in, Koh Samui didn’t even have roads till the early 1970s.
Fast-forward 30 years and Koh Samui has cemented its place as one of Thailand’s top tourist hot-spots, behind only Phuket in numbers. Its development was momentous, and of course, not without its impact. Depending on your preferences, there are parts of Koh Samui that you may prefer to close your eyes through. Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui’s busiest tourist epicentre, is a mecca for any young tourist looking for a cheap night out. The good news is Chaweng Beach is just a tiny part of an island that still can be as unspoilt as it was a generation ago, if you look. There’s a hundred perfect white sandy beaches to lay your towel, there’s amazing coral to dive and snorkel amongst, waterfalls to be found up dirt tracks with pot-holes that keep the droves away, and best of all, a local population of mellow, Buddhist souls that keep tradition alive in these modern times. And perhaps that’s Koh Samui’s strongest selling point: the choice it offers. On Koh Samui you can stay in a fishermen’s hut on a lagoon for $10 a night, or stay in one of Asia’s most sophisticated five-star retreats for 50 times the price. Or you can sample local delicacies by the side of the road for a few Thai baht, or eat in a world-class restaurant with a chef who’s probably been on TV. You could have a massage on the beach from an old lady with hands as rough as sandpaper, or enjoy a new-age beauty treatment in a health spa for the rich and famous.
NEED TO KNOW
DO spend a few nights on the gorgeous island of Koh Phangnan which is a short boat ride away. Trust me, this island is so laid-back it’s almost horizontal!
DON’T get put off by Chaweng, spend time here when you want to shop, or dance till dawn. Sure, there’s girlie bars and buck’s party groups from England, but there’s also more sophisticated lounge bars and the Reggae Bar pumps out some pretty cool live music.
COUPLES WILL LOVE exploring the romance of Koh Samui that’s off the tourist maps. Don’t rely on tour buses, hire a cheap motor bike or car and allow yourself to take roads that aren’t even on maps. Besides glorious beaches, Koh Samui offers romantic couples waterfalls and unspoilt lagoons. Ride a motorbike to the northern coast where the sunsets drip into the Gulf Of Siam, take a bottle of champagne with you to somewhere like Ban Tai.
GETTING THERE Thai Airways flies 40 times a week from Australia to Bangkok with onward connections to Koh Samui. www.thaiairways.com.au