> > by Rob Dunlop
The passengers are in awe of the towering black cliffs that beckon. My wife and I can hardly contain our wonderment either. Our noses are pressed against the windows of the high-speed catamaran; our mouths are agape.
We glide across the deep cobalt-blue waters of the lagoon, which is the caldera – the sunken part of a volcano, now filled with water.There is a sense of mystery and excitement at knowing this, and that the distant landscapes with white-washed villages perched high, are in fact clinging to the rims of a volcano jutting out of the sea. Just off to the side of our boat is a small, uninhabited island that bubbles and steams away; it is the core of the volcano reminding us that it is still active today. And that we have most certainly brought our sense of adventure with us too.
It is this mystique and drama that paradoxically works to create the beauty and magic of Santorini; strangely, yet undeniably, one of the most romantic settings on earth.
Everyone disembarks excitedly when the boat arrives at port. And as our vehicle climbs the steep terrain to the settlements above, video cameras are rolling; partners become directors, “Get that. Get that!” The landscape, so far, is barren except for lava rock. But when we ascend and drive further, villages appear and so do pockets of vegetation, including grapevines, which cluster along the ground.
Arriving at our hotel, Esperas Traditional Houses, we immediately freshen up with a swim in the pool, already signalling our planned core activity.
But as with all romantic holidays, a balance needs to be struck to get the most out of it. Obviously you desire lots of relaxation - poolside lounging, exchanges of flattery, and cocktail service. But with such an exciting and diverse destination as Santorini, compromises have to be made. We strike a deal - half-days at the hotel’s dreamy cliff top pool followed by half-days discovering the island’s treasures. Or vice versa, depending on the weather.
And as much as we know we should dig up enough enthusiasm for the history of the Minoan civilisation to visit local museums and archaeological sites of buried towns, we unashamedly seek out other delights, such as waterside dining, beaches and shopping! “Where else can you buy jewellery of lava stone?” my wife pleads.
Santorini, officially known as Thira, is a photographer’s paradise. And it’s not hard to get great pictures. Just about every step along its winding paths of black lava stone reveals a picture-postcard scene; no matter what direction you turn. The lunar-like terrain with harsh colours of grey, black and ochre with only tufts of pale green is surprisingly beautiful, made even more so by the vibrant blues of the Aegean Sea and oh-so-bright Mediterranean sky.
Splashes of colour appear amongst the tiered landscape of mainly white housing - some cubed, some barrelled. Lemon houses with blue doors and shutters; peach houses with red-brown trimmings sit alongside powder blues, pinks and creams. The striking blue roofs are saved for the domes of the churches, whose small white crosses sit in the sky. Sprays of crimson bougainvillea tie it all together.
Hundreds of metres below at the water’s edge, the scenes are just as beguiling. Shallower emerald waters fringe rocky outcrops, enticing intrepid swimmers to leap. Just around the corner from tavernas at Ammoudi, where the smells of freshly cooked seafood are just as alluring, there is a swimming spot that provides an up close experience of the volcanic crater with sheer cliffs that plunge deeper into the sea. Goggles recommended!
The island’s beaches vary in colour and texture from the smooth black stones of Perivolos, the black sands of Perissa and Kamari, the greyish sands of Monolithos, and the aptly coloured sands of Red Beach. Scamper along the hot sands here while eerie volcanic cliffs tower above, creating the feeling of another planet. There are many more beaches on the east side to discover. And while bus transport is adequate to some of them from the hub in the main town of Fira, journeys can be slow and cramped because of crowds. Options for the more adventurous include car, bike and scooter (two and four wheel) hire. This certainly makes for more flexible and independent exploration of the island’s 73 square kilometres.
Boat rides are another impressive way to become oriented with the island’s geography. Excursions include trips to the other volcanic rims – the islands of Thirasia, Palia Kameni, and of course the bubbling, steaming core of Nea Kameni island, which rises from the centre of the caldera.
The main shopping areas are Fira and Oia, although Oia offers a far more interesting and attractive experience, a smaller village with character and a reputation as an artists’ haven. Amongst the usual assortment of souvenir shops you’ll find high-end jewellery, art and clothing. Funky bars and cafés provide a respite from the heat. Or take a seat in the small town square in front of the church with its ghostly windswept trees.
As the late afternoon approaches people clamber to the western edge of the island to watch the spectacle that is the world-famous sunset. Many bars and restaurants provide perfect viewing platforms. Each night appreciative crowds take photos, express delight and applaud the natural wonder. Moonlit nights round off perfect sun-drenched days – towns twinkle in the distance, stars twinkle above – and couples come back out to play.
Santorini is truly sublime…