> > by Rob Dunlop
Siem Reap, gateway to Cambodia’s famous temples, is indeed a steamy place to visit.
Tropical haze aside, be prepared to be blown away by a culture so enormous in scale and beauty, that after exploring it you’ll feel suitably entitled to retreat to an intimate sanctuary of luxurious pampering. For Siem Reap is not only Asia’s undisputed temple capital, but also boasts some of Asia’s most lavish spas and resorts. Adventure travel and luxury has never felt so balanced.
On the edge of rice-paddies, the ramshackle provincial capital seems more like a cluster of villages. Its river meanders past bamboo structures, French colonial architecture, a Royal Palace, parks and tree lined streets carrying locals on bicycles.
In a pavilion under the whir of ceiling fans, sitting in cane wicker chairs, indulging cocktails, my wife and I absorb the bustling provincial life around us. Already feeling sultry and heady, yet we haven’t even explored what brings most visitors to these parts of the world – the temples.
Around 10kms away is Angkor Wat, the most famous temple and the world’s largest religious monument. But Angkor Wat is only one of dozens of temples within the enormous Angkor Archaeological Park— a UNESCO World Heritage Site which spreads over 400 square kilometres!
The scale and history is overwhelming. Angkor was the centre of the powerful Khmer Empire, an urban sprawl with a population of one million people, which ruled much of South-East Asia during periods between the ninth century and thirteenth century.
Over centuries of rule, each new King created a new city in the area with a temple to enshrine a mythical god of the time. These ‘palaces of the gods’ were built of the finest materials, stone and brick, and so still survive. Houses and other structures made of wood have since eroded.
Built in the 12th century, Angkor Wat is a stunning 200 hectare green space enclosed by a moat. Rich in symbolism and beauty, intricate stone carvings including 2000 apsaras – celestial nymphs – adorn the temple. The reflection in the lake is mesmerising.
A visit to Cambodia cannot be made without acknowledging its sad past. During the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975 and 1979, almost one-fifth of the population was brutally murdered. During that period Cambodians were forbidden to visit Angkor Wat and other temples.
Angkor Wat has since become a symbol of hope for Cambodians. It appears on the national flag and it’s where Cambodians will make a pilgrimage once in their life. As you spend time in Cambodia you learn how the atrocities have affected the people and how they are trying to make peace with the past, to recover. Angkor Wat is a powerful attraction on so many levels.
The unruliness of Ta Prohm temple is intoxicating. Within a tropical jungle setting, hundred year-old fig trees strangle and entwine stone ruins. The atmosphere is strangely romantic, aided by secluded nooks and hidden passageways to discover. This is where Angelina Jolie strutted her stuff for the adventure blockbuster movie Tomb Raider.
The giant enigmatic faces, also synonymous with Angkor, are found at Bayon temple within Angkor Thom, one of the largest Khmer cities ever built. The fortress walls and city gates, surrounded by a moat, still remain. Set amongst lush forest and lawns, you can easily lose yourself within its maze of chambers, stairwells
and haunting corridors.
And there lies the dilemma – so much to see in so little time. While you could hurriedly take in the temple highlights — Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom (including Bayan) and Ta Prohm – in a single day ($US20 entry fee), it’s much better to spread it over a couple of days at least. And to efficiently visit them you should line up transport because of the distances. Transport and tour guides can be arranged from hotels or at the park entrance.
After a day of soaking up history and culture, the modern delights of Siem Reap beckon. For cocktails and drinks, head to Pub Street, which overflows with interesting bars and shops. At night it transforms into a pedestrian-only nightlife hub.
The best shopping for traditional goods is at Old Market and Angkor Night Market. But also be sure to check out the interesting laneways that run parallel to Pub Street, such as Alley West, for small boutiques, galleries and cafes.
Rejuvenation options are aplenty, ranging from a tickle of the toes to award winning spa treatments. For a bit of fun you can plonk your feet into a portable pool on the street for fish to nibble away dead skin, or opt for a reasonably priced massage near the Old Market and along Sivatha Boulevard.
But eventually you will need to succumb to the real thing — upscale spa therapy. Thankfully, there are plenty of high-end resorts and purpose-built spas that boast gorgeous settings and world-class treatments.
Within a tranquil, tropical setting with flowering aromas and soothing running water, it’s time to relax and reflect.
It’s been a long time since I’ve been moved so much by a travel experience. This is an adventure holiday with soul.
factfile
FLY: Fly to Vietnam with Vietnam Airlines (from Sydney and Melbourne) then onto Cambodia with Cambodia Angkor Air
www.vietnamairlines.com and www.angkorairways.com
CLIMATE: Cambodia is hot and steamy with temperatures ranging from 20ºC in the cool/dry season (November to February) to 35ºC in the hot/dry season (March to May). Monsoon rain occurs between June and October. December to January is the best time to visit for cool, dry weather.
CURRENCY: The Reil. A$1 = 3,853 Reils but the US dollar is commonly used.
VISA: Australians and New Zealanders require visas, available for $US20 on arrival at Siem Reap and Phnom Penh airports.
HEALTH: Although malaria risk is low in Siem Reap, insect repellent is recommended, as well as vaccines for hepatitis A & B, typhoid, tetanus-diphtheria and measles.
MORE INFORMATION: Cambodia Tourism
www.tourismcambodia.com