> > by Rowena Carr-Allinson
As a travel writer I am lucky to see some of the world’s most gorgeous places. Having written lots of honeymoon stories, well before I had a ring on my finger, I always wondered where I’d go for the real thing … So, after much consideration in front of a map, and plenty of research online, we settled on an extraordinary African journey, in utmost luxury!
Arriving in AfricaOur luxury Flying Safari with Elewana’s super plush 9-seater Cessna Grand Caravan picked us up from a small airport near the famous Kilimanjaro volcano, so we fi rst transferred to Arusha from Dar Es Salaam. An interesting experience. Arriving in Africa is a blow to the senses. It’s so different. The air is filled with earthy aromas, it’s hot and muggy and chaos rules. In Arusha, things suddenly got rather more glamorous, as we settled into huge club class style butterscotch leather seats. “So, this is what it must be like to be Angelina Jolie!” I thought. If all air travel were like this, life would be very different. Our first stop? Kuro, an even smaller strip in the midst of the bush, in Tarangire National Park in Northern Tanzania.
As we come down to land, I point wildly at the surprisingly green fl oodplain below: I’m ridiculously excited to have spotted my first herd of elephants. The first of many. An impromptu two-hour game drive later, during which we spot a pride of lions, giraffe, ostriches and elephants, and we’ve arrived at Tarangire Treetops, a beautiful lodge built around a massive 800 year old Baobab tree, with 20 tree houses wedged on stilts. It’s utterly romantic. The tent-style fl aps offer an incredible view of the golden valley below and at night you simply zip up! The room is all wood, from the fl oorboards, to the decking and the gorgeous rustic beam double bed - even the twin washbasin stands! On our first official game drive with Ndosi, our fantastic guide, we are spoilt with beasts, from the ‘Small Serengeti’ wildebeest walking in single file to the pocket-sized Dik-Dik antelopes, elephants mud-bathing, zebras by the hundreds, stubby warthogs, a rainbow of birds and my favourite: the graceful giraffes …
We also spend an hour at the local Masai Boma (circular ‘fenced in’ homes) where we meet local Masai tribeswomen and their daughters (the boys are out with the cattle) and, before long, we’re showing them pictures on the digital screens, to their great delight. I love that they live so traditionally in their mud huts but enjoy technology! That night, we’re treated to the Masai menfolk’s traditional dancing, mesmerising chanting and that infamous jumping. Off to Ngorongoro Our Flying Safari itinerary means we’re staying two nights in each place, so before long we’re back on our tiny, lovely Cessna. As the pilots hop out, in the middle of nowhere, I can’t help but think about how special this is. Being picked up from a dusty red strip where just half an hour before the zebras roamed is the ultimate luxury. Bedazzled by the stunning scenery below, I’m momentarily cured of my fear of heights. The views are awesome, the ochre landscape stretching on forever making the flight a delicious experience. We’re soon transported to another world: a greener world where we’re staying at a white washed Cape Dutch style colonial manor house: the Manor at Ngorongoro, set in a vast coffee plantation near the famous crater.
It’s terribly civilised with high tea in full swing, complete with pink frosted Victoria sponge cake on a tiered platter, and we’re both surprised how, in just a couple of days, we’ve grown used to our dusty safari kit and how strange (but nice) it feels to be somewhere so ‘formal’.
Our fabulous room comes with its own fireplace, a friendly butler, a glorious bathroom complete with claw foot Victorian-style tub and the amazing view sweeping over the coffee plantation’s hills. The highlight of the stay is an excursion to Ngorongoro Crater. Baraka, our new guide jokes “You like the African massage?” as we jolt along the bumpy road up to the Crater’s rim (over 2,200 metres) through the dense jungle. Heading down again into its centre, we marvel at the amazingly different ecosystems, from the lush tropical forest inhabited by baboons and rhino, down to the glimmering Lake Makat with its huge hippos and the savannah where we spot everything from a pride of lazy lionesses napping, a hyena tearing into a kill, a cheetah sunbathing and wildebeest by the thousands. We soon fi nd out that there are two ways to safari here: put your faith in your guide and Lady Luck, or keep an eye out for the dust trails. If you see several jeeps lined up, it’s bound to be good! It’s just one huge game of hide and seek…
A Serengeti Safari
Another 45 minute hop on our very own VIP jet, and we’re in one of the planet’s most renowned wildlife reserves: the Serengeti National Park, with its long golden grass stretching as far as the eye can see, dotted only with umbrella Acacias and well camoufl aged beasties … Our new home, the Serengeti Migration Camp is a tented wonderland where wildlife roams free. The camp is a vision in sandy safari colours and local decor. Definitely Out of Africa chic – a perfect blend of colonial comfort and African soul. We’re expecting Meryl and Robert to turn up at dinner …
Our tent is huge and exudes decadence and luxury, from the glamorous bathroom to the dark furniture and details like the cognac carafe and zebra-skin case. The lodge also has a bean shaped pool and a viewing deck which becomes the social centre for cocktails at sunset. If we thought we’d seen a lot before, we really get up close to nature here. From the deck we spot hippos, giraffes, buffalo and elephants. We even ‘bump into’ (thankfully shy) baboons, an inquisitive warthog, cliff springers, Hyrax and at breakfast we meet some very cheeky white fuzzy-faced monkeys who pinch our bread. Our highlight? Watching a watering hole where thousands of zebras were being berated by an angry elephant, baby in tow. It’s like watching the Discovery Channel, live, against a jaw-droppingly beautiful backdrop. Being there alone: just us, the view and the wildlife is a true privilege. Another highlight is the food at the Camp. I’m impressed at how they whip up fantastic gourmet meals every night out in the bush. How did they pull off that incredible hot chocolate mousse fondant? Before flying back to Dar Es Salaam, we make a final overnight stop at the Arusha Coffee Lodge, the largest coffee plantation in Tanzania. Advent, our lovely lady butler is all smiles and runs us a honeymooner’s special (much needed post Serengeti) bath with beautiful rose petals.
Coming back to reality is odd, so we make the most of our last evening in the comfort of our Plantation House amidst the berry laden coffee bushes. I hadn’t realised that ‘Safari’ actually means ‘journey’ in Kiswahili … and what a safari it’s been! An incredible taste of Africa in true luxury.
Zanzibar: The Perfect Post Safari Beach Break
Set off the coast of Tanzania, Zanzibar is the perfect add-on to a safari trip and has plenty of hotels and resorts to choose from, whatever your taste. Searching high and low for the ultimate honeymoon hideout for us was a tough job, but we found it at Kilindi on the northern tip of Zanzibar. Kilindi, a tiny 15 room boutique hideaway is totally unique. Each villa is split in two parts: the ground floor open lounge area with giant white daybed, lazy chairs and its own rain water plunge pool and the upstairs part with a bedroom and beautiful alfresco bathroom. The domed bathroom with solar heated water has amazing arched open-air windows, a central shower and beach views. There isn’t a building in sight along the crescent bay’s half-kilometre of fine coral-bright white sand. It’s absolutely mind bogglingly beautiful.
In the room, a giant bed is encased in mosquito netting. It’s utterly romantic but so simple. Essentials like a reading light, a desk, and a vast wardrobe, and that’s it. The whitewashed shutters let through the breeze and open up onto an awesome view. To the left, across the aquamarine waters lies an uninhabited island, ahead is the turquoise water in all its glory. There’s also another plunge pool, like a mini eternity pool with its own wooden decking and two oversized sunbed mattresses just for us. The view over the calm waters dotted with the odd fishing dhow’s white sail, fishermen’s ancient pirogues on the sand, and the lush greenery is incredibly exotic. It’s mesmerising. Whatever the time of day, or weather, the view changes with the waters turning deep greys, dark aquamarine, vibrant turquoise, all manner of shades of blue and green – you could sit here and watch it all day … Days are spent in a happy, lazy haze of sleeping, reading and being spoilt by the chef but it’s a good idea to pop into StoneTown, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site to see the Sultan’s Palace, the one-time Slave Market and the homes of Dr Livingstone and Freddie Mercury as well as the bustling food market. It’s also worth walking the narrow streets to see the impressive wooden doors with their intricate carvings, huge spikes and bolts originally designed to keep lions and leopards at bay. Kilindi is all about barefoot luxury and a laid back attitude. We love the cosy bar, with its comfy leather sofas, flickering candles and beautiful stone bar set against a wall with a running waterfall. Dinner is always in a different spot, sometimes up on the roof terrace under the stars, sometimes by the stunning eternity pool and the food is delicious. The menu is fresh and exotic: grilled squid salad, lamb, seared tuna, lobster in curried sauce with mango and shrimps with aioli. It’s heaven. Because it’s so simple, but so special Kilindi is exquisite.
It’s quite simply honeymoon bliss.