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In the Mood for Morocco

With Marrakech an undeniably dramatic, chaotic – and occasionally stressful – destination, your choice of hotel retreat becomes especially important, says David Sandhu, who has profiled five of the city’s most seductive hotels.
La Mamounia

Built in 1922 when it daringly combined Moroccan architectural tradition with Art Deco, La Mamounia became a legendary haunt of the rich, famous and powerful, including Churchill and de Gaulle, during the 1950s. After Charlie Chaplin visited in 1955, the rest of Hollywood followed.

In recent years, A-list guests among the 171 rooms, 57 suites and 3 villas have included Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman. La Mamounia is certainly an inspiring place. Alfred Hitchcock filmed The Man Who knew Too Much in its elegant interior, David Hockney was influenced by its lavish pool and gardens, and Paul McCartney even named a track after the hotel on Wings’ Band on the Run.

It’s little wonder that guests are so keen to browse le Livre D’Or (visitor’s book) kept in the manager’s office – it reads like a Who’s Who, united by a common love of La Mamounia and Marrakech.

Why we love it: La Mamounia has established a reputation as a guardian of Morocco’s culinary traditions. Executive Chef Boujemaa Mars’s signature dishes include tanjia marrakchia, a lamb stew cooked for 24 hours in a Jarre (clay pot) on a charcoal fire, and pastilla, a pigeon and almond pie topped with cinnamon and sugar. Taking a stroll in the hotel’s famous gardens is an undeniably uplifting and intimate experience – covering nearly 13 acres and designed in the Moroccan tradition, the gardens display an incredible variety of flowers and trees. Orange and lemon trees, jacarandas, scented rose bushes and bright mimosas are in abundance.


Villa Des Orangers

This small, intimate hotel comprises a recently renovated and superbly decorated riad (traditional urban home). All the rooms – equipped with safe, mini-bar, air conditioning, satellite TV, direct phone line, bathroom with separate bath and shower – lead into the riad itself.

Orange is the big theme here: from the lingering scent of four orange trees, to the interior décor motif of natural tones accessorised with warm orange hues.

Why we love it: The outside patios, under the shade of the orange trees, make an impossibly romantic rendezvous – so it’s really not surprising how many couples choose to stay here. From the roof-top swimming pool terrace, there are wonderful views of the famous Koutoubia Mosque (flood-lit by night) and the High Atlas Mountains. Here, complimentary mint tea and Moroccan pastries are served – although the fabulous cocktails are hard to resist while choosing between the gourmet menus of the French and Moroccan restaurants.


Riad Lotus Perle

Set in the heart of the Medina, you can’t get a more central or more traditional location than this.

However, the contemporary cool of the interiors here are a far cry from the normal school of riad décor – it’s black and white throughout and Art Deco inspired. The only problem with this immaculate five-bedroomed locale is that you might feel guilty messing up its film star looks – but it’s unbelievably sexy!

Why we love it: When staying somewhere so monochrome and voguish, it makes sense to splash out on the best room. In this case, the most spectacular choice would be the Coco Chanel room which is an absolute temple to lavish design – the bathroom, in particular, is amazingly glam with its own marble tub and open fireplace. You’ll never want to leave.


Amanjena

Aman (“peaceful”) jena (“paradise”) certainly lives up to its billing as a sanctuary for its privileged guests. Located five miles outside Marrakech, Amanjena has successfully managed to break the mould of Moroccan hotels – by embracing minimalism in a culture that traditionally celebrates vibrant colour and myriad patterns.

However, with its Moorish-influenced colonnades and arches, there’s no shortage of style and luxury. The focal point of Amanjena is its ancient bassin. From this central plaza of water, channels flow into two long canals.

Beyond this, Amanjena’s 34 pavilions and six, two-storey maisons, rise and fall with the geometric rhythms of a Marrakech palace.

Why we love it: So relaxing is the ambience of the open fires, walled gardens, private plunge pools and the health centre offering a hammam or massage that any couple might be tempted to remain within Amanjena’s walls during their whole stay. Certainly the gourmet food – from Moroccan to Thai menu (cooked by a Bangkok chef) – is as good as you’ll find in Marrakech.


Les Deux Tours

Lying like an oasis of calm in the heart of Marrakech’s palm grove, Les Deux Tours appeals to those who embrace Morocco’s hippie trail heritage.

Among the delightfully untamed gardens, blossom-strewn patios, lawns and inviting pools are six large villas. And each of the 24 rooms can be booked individually.

Designed by Charles Boccara, one of Morocco’s most famous architects, each villa has been individually styled. Built using natural local materials, there are touches of Turkish and Egyptian influence.

Why we love it: With a small private pool and terrace, each villa boasts a secluded spot in which to enjoy breakfast accompanied by a birdsong soundtrack. Lunch at Les Deux Tours is a glamorous affair, taken in the shade of the Berber-style tent by the swimming pool. Dinner at the hotel’s intimate restaurant, serving authentic Moroccan cuisine, is excellent.