A Couple’s Guide to Sydney

> > by Ben & Joanna Hall

Fantastic beaches, jaw-droppingly beautiful water views, great walks, sophisticated shopping and superb restaurants - it’s little wonder Sydney is regularly voted as the number one city destination in the world in traveller surveys. Cast against a backdrop of one of the most beautiful (and biggest) harbours in the world, this is a city which revels in the attention it receives and it delivers visitors, and locals, a myriad of unique experiences. Here’s a suggested four day guide to getting out and about in Sydney:

DAY ONE
Morning - Walk the Harbour
As the saying goes: the best way to get to know a place is on foot, and walking from the Harbour Bridge to the Royal Botanic Gardens is the perfect introduction to Sydney and a great way to take in the ‘postcard’ sites. Starting from the base of the Sydney Harbour Bridge itself on Hickson Road, the Rocks, from there it’s a short walk around to bustling Circular Quay (taking note of where Wharf 3 is located for the Manly Ferry which can be done on another day) and then it’s time to get up close to the Opera House itself and join the parade of people having their photographs taken on the steps of this architectural wonder. Right behind the Opera House is the Royal Botanic Gardens and at the end is Mrs Macquarie’s Chair - set on a point it provides one of the best aspects in Sydney - the Bridge, the Opera House, Kirribilli House, Fort Denison and the city skyline. 

Afternoon - Take a Harbour Cruise
So you’ve seen Sydney Harbour from land, now it’s time to hit the water and cruise its expansive waterways. It’s a fun and romantic way to experience all the main landmarks the city has to offer, and is a great way to rest your feet after a morning of walking. Captain Cook Cruises (www.captaincook.com.au) is the leading operator and departs from Wharf 6 at Circular Quay. They run sightseeing tours with commentary throughout the day starting from around $25 per adult, with several coffee, lunch and dinner cruise options as well.


DAY TWO
Morning - Paddy’s Markets & Chinatown
It’s time to get to the heart and soul of the CBD and Sydney’s Paddy’s Markets in Haymarket is a shoppers’ paradise on the corner of Hay and Thomas Streets. It’s a massive market which actually sells mostly new products and it’s bargain shopping at its best with a vast array of clothing, jewellery, sunglasses, CDs, DVDs, posters and prints and Australiana souvenirs. After a shopping-sensory overload head across the road - literally - to the heart of Chinatown on Dixon Street. Sydney’s Chinatown is an authentic “suburb in the city” and naturally features a strong Asian culture with great restaurants, hole-in-the-wall eating joints, and shops selling Chinese herbs and medicines, spice shops and mini-marts with imported food items. This is an obvious lunch spot which poses a major problem though - which restaurant to eat at? Simple rule: follow your nose, and more importantly the locals, and you can’t go wrong. The food halls on Dixon Street are also an authentic experience - don’t be put off by the frenetic atmosphere and slightly drab surroundings - these places serve great food at inexpensive prices.

Afternoon - Darling Harbour & the Rocks
A five-minute walk from Chinatown takes you to the top end of Darling Harbour - one of Sydney’s largest dining, shopping and entertainment precincts. This place is buzzing with activity day and night - by day the alfresco cafes are busy with visitors sipping drinks while watching the world go by, and at night the restaurants and bars come alive. 

From the man-made glitz of Darling Harbour to the historical district, The Rocks, it’s a short taxi ride or a 20-minute walk along the CBD’s main street, George Street. The Rocks gives something of an insight into Sydney’s colonial past. The sandstone Cadman’s Cottage (110 George St) is Sydney’s oldest surviving building and Campbell’s Storehouses (7-27 Circular Quay West) is a former warehouse storage area which now has galleries and pricey restaurants. After a day of sightseeing, it’s time to sit down and enjoy a cold beer at one of the area’s traditional old pubs along George Street, with The Fortune of War Hotel and The Mercantile the pick of the bunch. 


DAY THREE
Morning - The Manly Ferry
For more than 150 years, ferries have been operating between Sydney Cove and Manly and today’s 30-minute journey is a ritual for many first-time and regular visitors. Manly is a beach village with harbour beaches on one side and a famous surf beach on the other, lined with Norfolk Pines and good restaurants and cafes. This is the type of place where you can be as active, or inactive as you like. For the active types, surf lessons can be had at Manly Surf School at North Steyne Surf Club (www.manlysurfschool.com) and there’s the 10km Manly to Spit Bridge Scenic Walkway (turn left on leaving the ferry and follow the signs) which takes around two and a half hours and skirts some of the most spectacular and lesser-known sections of Sydney Harbour including Middle Harbour and its beautiful beaches.

Afternoon - Iconic Bondi
It’s one of the world’s most famous surf beaches, and Bondi Beach is one of those places you have to visit - even if just once. It’s the closest beach to the city (8km away) and the busiest, especially in summer, and while it lacks the charm of other Sydney beaches, it’s always buzzing with life thanks to its myriad of cafes and shops. At the southern end of the beach is a great picnic spot at Mackenzie’s Point with views of North and South Bondi. And the 6km Bondi to Coogee Walk is another great coastal walk which takes in Mackenzie’s Point, Tamarama Beach, Bronte Beach, Clovelly and Coogee. 


DAY FOUR
Morning - Sydney Fish Market & Balmain
On every day of the week, the southern hemisphere’s largest fish market swings into action with an auction of more than 50 tonnes of seafood. The market also has retail outlets, cafes and restaurants and is open to the public from 7am-4pm every day. It’s best to arrive early to catch the auctions. The Fish Market is on the corner of Pyrmont Bridge Rd and Bank Streets, Pyrmont, and can be reached on the Light Rail System or a 443 bus from the QVB building in the city.

A short distance from here is one of Sydney’s charming “harbour hugging” suburbs - Balmain. A former working class neighbourhood, its terraced houses have now been spruced up into million dollar pads but it’s the cafe and bar scene along Darling Street which makes this a fun detour. Balmain is a short taxi ride from the Fish Market, or can be reached by ferry from Circular Quay. 

Afternoon - Paddington
Another one of Sydney’s famous suburbs, Paddington is a favourite with trendy shoppers and fashionistas and on Saturdays its second-hand market is a major drawcard. Like Balmain, “Paddo” is lined with renovated terraced houses and National Trust Listed architecture. There’s also galleries and an abundance of cafes and restaurants, and some beautiful old English-style pubs can be found down the backstreets for those who are happy to go exploring. 


Eat, Drink and be Merry!
With literally thousands of bars and restaurants, with scores more opening each week, it’s almost impossible to keep up with the scene. Here are a few ideas for a special Sydney night out:

25th Floor Cocktail Bar - Arguably the best bar views of Sydney, and the best classic cocktails to start the evening. Boulevard Hotel, 90 William Street, Kings Cross.

Quayside Brasserie - Location, location etc. Commanding views of the Opera House, Circular Quay and the Harbour Bridge, this is a great spot for coffee, lunch, cocktails or dinner. Shop 1, Opera Quays, 2 East Circular Quay.

Aria Restaurant - Consistently rated one of the best restaurants in Sydney, its modern Australian menu is complemented by stunning views of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. 1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay.

Doyles on the Beach - This institution is one of the most romantic restaurants in Sydney - set right on Watsons Bay, seafood is the main specialty with a sweeping view along Sydney Harbour to the Bridge.